The masterful handiwork of a nyonya artist, the ceramic details of intricate flowers and delicate vases adorn the deep blue archways that curve over Nyonya Palazzo’s entrance.
Nearby, a spiral stairway glistens in silver and gold embellishments, leading you to the cafe’s side entrance.
Stepping into Nyonya Palazzo feels like a warm hug. Inside, overflowing crystal shelves stacked with traditional nyonya treats of every colour, shape and size, entice.
Nyonya Palazzo opened their doors three weeks ago and the little cafe’s business has been bustling ever since.
“I never expected this many people and during the weekends it’s non-stop, as the waiting list is never ending from 9am till 6pm,” said Tan Kei Vin, Nyonya Palazzo’s owner.
“On our first day of business, we served over a hundred customers and every weekend since, we are all sold out out by 4pm.”
Images of the cafe’s sinfully indulgent Nyonya Baba set has been blasted all over social media and it’s no surprise why this selection has been a craze amongst customers.
Consisting of all your favourites, Tan said that no one can truthfully say they’ve tasted kuih “if you haven’t tried these kuih”.
The Nyonya Baba set features seri muka, pulut tai tai, kuih talam, seven-layered kuih lapis, kuih kacang merah, purple kuih bengkang and yellow kuih ubi.
“All the kuih are made using my mother’s own recipes and my staff wake up at between 3-4am every day to make these from scratch,” Tan said.
However, behind these sweet nyonya treats lie a tale of hardship as Tan’s mother began the art of kuih-making only as a desperate measure to keep her family alive.
“During the economic crisis of 1998, my family went bankrupt and my mom began asking around our old town in Perlis to learn kuih recipes,” said Tan.
“My mom didn’t know anything as she wasn’t highly educated but she began selling kuih as a way to earn money for our family.
“Her recipes are now 24 years old, and back when I was 11 and my sister was 12 – our mother would tell us to quickly go shower and have lunch after getting back home from school as she needed our help with the kuih making,” Tan said, adding that they sold their kuih door to door.
A favourite here is the Nyonya Hot, a smooth and velvety blend of coffee served in a delicate porcelain teacup, not a chunky ceramic mug.
“A lot of my customers are amazed by this concept as no one had ever thought of putting coffee in a traditional teacup before,” Tan said.
There’s a secret ingredient that lies within this coffee that elevates it from your average cup of joe.
“We use Arabica beans for our coffee blends and instead of normal sweeteners, we drizzle in our homemade gula Melaka.”
Gula Melaka is not only Malaysia’s version of honey, but a staple in Peranakan households.
Explaining that Malaysians rarely promote their own culture, Tan said he has always dreamt of opening a cafe that would not only showcase Malaysia’s traditional foods in an elevated way, but would also show others that this country has more to offer than just its food.
“I’ve always wanted to introduce tourists to our kebayas and the nyonya culture as I want them to know that Malaysia isn’t just famous for its food but also its culture,” Tan said.
As such, Nyonya Palazzo’s customers enjoy the rare opportunity to dress like a true Peranakan through the cafe’s kebaya rental service that also includes accessories like sparkling jewel pins.
“The first part of my cafe is about nyonya food, then the kebaya. The last part involves supporting local artists and brands,” Tan said, adding that those who handcrafted bags and jewellery were facing tough times because of the pandemic and the subsequent lack of tourists.
If you wish to get a taste of Peranakan culture, do make a reservation at Nyonya Palazzo to indulge in decadent kuih while dressed to the nines like an authentic Baba Nyonya.
Nyonya Palazzo
29, Church Street
10200 George Town
Penang
Operating Hours: Daily: 9am-6pm
Stay current - Follow FMT on WhatsApp, Google news and Telegram