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Having survived the changing tides of times, the business is currently helmed by a third-generation owner determined to keep his grandfather’s legacy alive.
The past
The coffee shop was established by Foo Hee Hong in 1956. He had come over to Malaya from Hainan Island in China in the early 1950s and worked for a British district officer as a cook. When the officer was returning to Britain in 1956, he invited Foo to join him.
However, Foo politely declined the offer. His employer, who recognised his capabilities, suggested Foo start a café and gifted him with a piece of land.
After opening the café, Foo worked hard, starting as early as 4am and ending at 11pm every day. In 1959, he brought his wife and daughter from China to settle down with him in Malaya. They had two more children.
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Foo’s eldest child was only ten years old when she reached Malaya and started helping her father in the shop after school.
After completing secondary school, she decided to help her father run the coffee shop instead of furthering her studies. Upon his passing, she and her sister took over the family business.
The present
Decades later, her son, David Kan, while on study leave, began helping out at the coffee shop when they were short on staff.
“I saw the same customers coming daily, and I felt that there was something special about this place. From then, I started persuading my family to allow me to run the business, and I quit everything else within weeks,” the 30-year-old accounting, banking, and finance graduate told FMT.
That was four years ago. Kan has since been modernising the business and has introduced a point-of-sale system and a data entry system to key in new orders.
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He also persuaded his sister and cousins to join him in the business venture. Together they have updated the menu and introduced curry laksa, mihun Siam, fish and chips, cakes, and pies.
Upon realising the lack of steamboat eateries in the vicinity, he decided to offer steamboat to his customers, available from 5pm to 9pm.
“There is no pork or alcohol on the menu, and we are also getting our halal certification,” he shared. FMT sampled some menu favourites.
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The breakfast set comes with bread, half-boiled eggs, a dollop of kaya and butter as well as a cup of coffee.
The homemade kaya is delicious and goes splendidly with the butter on the soft bread. Tear a slice of the bread and dip it into the eggs for a perfect Malaysian breakfast experience.
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The Hainanese chicken rice is a must-try here. The rice, imported AAA fragrant rice, is cooked with a homemade chicken broth, and is both fragrant and flavourful.
Meanwhile, the meat of the free-range or kampung chicken is succulent and tender, while the homemade tangy chili sauce is a perfect condiment to this timeless dish.
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The fish and chips is a tribute to Britain’s favourite streetfood. The fried fish is juicy and tender, making it a delightful balance to the crunchy batter. The fries, served hot, are crispy and very addictive.
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One of the highlights of this place is its custard pudding. Rich, smooth, and creamy, it is topped with an exquisite homemade caramel sauce that takes five hours to make – making every spoonful truly delightful.
The future
So, what lies ahead for this humble coffee shop?
“My grandfather’s wish has always been to expand the business, and that is one of the reasons I decided to take over the business. I hope to transform the business into a professional food and beverage chain,” Kan shared.
“At the same time, I don’t want it to be a premium chain – but something that is accessible to all. I want to serve quality food at affordable prices.”
If you’re looking for a spot of steamboat this Chinese New Year, how about dropping by at Choon Guan Hainan Coffee 1956? Besides the good food, it’s a trip back to the good old days of Malaya.
Choon Guan Hainan Coffee 1956
434, Jalan Besar Pandamaran
42000 Port Klang
Selangor
Business hours:
6am–4pm ; 5pm-9pm (steamboat). Closed on Tuesdays.
Contact: 03-3168 6828
Open from Feb 2 onwards.
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