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Brickfield’s go-to pisang goreng spot still hot 40 years on

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Senior citizen Chiam Beng Hoe and his son Yong Souk run a stall that draws in crowds craving their famous fritters.

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Free Malaysia Today
Chiam Beng Hoe and his son Yong Souk are the driving forces behind Brickfields’ legendary pisang goreng stall. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

KUALA LUMPUR:
Right across from the YMCA building in vibrant Brickfields stands a humble but legendary pisang goreng stall.

It boasts a history of more than 40 years and is a place where long lines of eager patrons brave the blazing sun to await their turn to savour the famous fritters.

Run by 66-year-old Chiam Beng Hoe and his son Yong Souk, the stall operates all day and is a beloved fixture in the community. Through the decades, it has not moved from the prime location and is the go-to spot for those frequenting the area.

Regardless of the time of day, but especially during the lunch hour, it’s best to brace yourself for a wait.

FMT Lifestyle recently visited the Chiams to uncover the secret behind the stall’s enduring popularity.

Free Malaysia Today
The secret behind Uncle Chiam’s irresistible pisang goreng lies in the use of Pisang Raja, a variety known for its exceptional sweetness. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

There are only four items on the menu: pisang goreng, kuih bakul, sesame balls and curry puffs. However, it is the Chiams’ signature pisang goreng, with bananas peeled, battered and fried on the spot, that has become their hallmark.

So what sets Uncle Chiam’s pisang goreng apart in a country where the delicacy is so ubiquitous?

The recipe has remained unchanged through all these years. “We use pisang raja,” Chiam said. “That is what we have been using from the day we started because it is sweeter than other banana varieties.”

You can’t argue with him. The evidence lies in the sight of sugar bubbling and caramelising on the crispy exterior of the bananas as they emerge from the hot oil.

Free Malaysia Today
This is the contraption the Chiams use to deliver ingredients from their rented residence to the stall below. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

But that’s not all. Uncle Chiam’s stall has an advantage in that it is located at street level directly below his family home.

As you wait in line, you might notice the family’s clever setup. With a simple walkie-talkie, father or son can communicate with the kitchen upstairs. In no time, a basket attached to a string descends, carrying ingredients prepared by Chiam’s wife.

This means that everything served at the stall is made fresh in small batches, ensuring that customers always get the best quality.

Free Malaysia Today
Uncle Chiam’s disarmingly simple menu. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Chiam, originally from Penang, relocated to the capital city with his family in his early twenties in search of a better life.

“In those days, it was difficult to survive in Penang,” he said. “It was my sister, who lived here, who suggested we move to Brickfields and set up a stall.”

He never thought that the decision would ultimately shape his life and create a lasting legacy in the Malaysian street food scene.

Chiam said he was selling each pisang goreng for 25 cents 40 years ago. “Now it is RM1.60 per piece. Even though prices have gone up, the quality and taste of bananas were so much better back then.”

Chiam learned how to cook the deep-fried treats from a friend. Of course, he is now a master of the craft. You’ll never catch him measuring anything, not even the ingredients for the batter. He relies solely on his keen eye and intuition.

Despite his traditional approach, Chiam now accepts Grab orders, a testament to the widespread fame of his pisang goreng.

“People don’t want to leave their house these days,” he said with a burst of laughter.

Free Malaysia Today
Chiam Yong Souk dipping a banana into the batter. (Moganraj Villavan @ FMT Lifestyle)

Despite his advancing age, he continues to share the responsibilities of frying and managing the stall with his son, Chiam Yong Souk, who arrives at 12.30 pm each day after his father has prepared everything.

Yong Souk is now 42. He carries on the family tradition by shouldering the responsibility of running the business.

“I have been helping my father since I was 12,” he said. “My brother didn’t want to continue our father’s business.

“I have seen so many stalls along this sidewalk disappear over the years. So I knew that if I didn’t step in, my father’s legacy would also disappear.”

So, the next time you find yourself in Brickfields, make sure to indulge in the crispy delight that has become a hallmark of Malaysian street food culture.

Brickfields Goreng Pisang
21-19 Jalan Thambipillay
Brickfields, 50470 Kuala Lumpur

Contact: 012-617 2511

Operating Hours: 11.00am to 5.00pm daily

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