Why Terengganu, you ask? Well, aside from its beautiful beaches, this state has culinary treasures city folks could never imagine.
One such example is a humble roadside establishment in Kuala Berang, located close to the tourist destination Lake Kenyir and about 45 minutes away from Kuala Terengganu.
It might not seem like much to the sceptical urbanite visitor – it’s more or less a collection of wood and metal cobbled together at the edge of the jungle – but don’t be fooled: this unassuming structure houses an array of delicious east-coast kampung cuisine.
Located by the bridge leading to Kampung Dusun, the warung opened in March last year and is run by husband-and-wife couple Abdullah Ali, 61, and Jalamah, 58, also known as Mek Lamah.
The business was born not out of financial necessity but as a way for Mek Lamah to share the joy of traditional Malay food with others.
The food is cooked over a wood fire rather than the usual gas stove, giving it a smoky flavour with a distinctive aroma, not to mention a shorter cooking time.
Fish is a staple in Terengganu cuisine, and indeed, it takes centre stage at Warung Mek Lamah. One dish that comes highly recommended by locals is the “ikan baung masak tempoyak”, caught fresh from the waters of Lake Kenyir.
Tempoyak, a Malay condiment made from fermented durian, is an acquired taste – somewhere between sweet and sour, with a slightly pungent aroma. The flavour is infused into the soft meat of the fish, which results in a dish that tastes better than it looks.
Adventurous foodies ought to be able to tuck in safely enough. For the best experience, cut yourself some fish before eating it with a spoonful of tempoyak-soaked rice.
Another dish worth trying is the “ikan lampan”, fried to crispy perfection so you can enjoy every part of the fish with a satisfying crunch.
“Ikan tilapia bakar” is also on the menu – a refreshing change from the usually steamed fish. Scoop the flesh out of the crispy skin and enjoy it piping hot.
Then there’s the “keli berlada”, catfish served with a generous amount of spice that leaves your tongue seared.
And for the youngsters who can’t survive without a chicken dish, order the simple but tasty “ayam goreng”.
As for greens, a variety of dishes are available, including “kerabu nasi ulam”, which consists of chopped raw vegetables.
The “terung berlada”, too, deserves some attention, with the soft, peppered flesh of the eggplant having a certain addictive quality.
Dishes aside, no visit to a Terengganu eatery is complete without trying “budu”, a traditional condiment used by Malay communities here, made from fermented anchovies and salt.
With a highly sour taste, adding it to your rice will leave you a happy eater, especially if you choose to toss in a side of delicious sambal as well.
By the time you leave this simple warung, there is no question you will be hankering to return here on your next trip to Terengganu.
To find out more about Warung Mek Lamah’s authentic kampung cooking, visit its Facebook profile or contact 012-9210468.
Warung Mek Lamah
Kg Dusun,
21700 Kuala Berang,
Terengganu
Business hours: 10am-3pm daily, closed on Fridays
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