Close to Pasar Seni is a restaurant which pays tribute to these olden times, all while serving affordable and delicious Peranakan food.
Despite having opened just last year, Warong Old China draws quite the crowd of customers during lunchtime.
The restaurant occupies a pre-war shophouse on Jalan Tun HS Lee, a busy, narrow road with only few parking bays available. Hence, it makes more sense parking your vehicle at Central Market and walking the three minutes from there to the restaurant.
Old saloon-style wooden doors welcome customers to the restaurant, flanked by classic stained-glass windows so rarely seen today.
Once inside, it’s a full-on blast from the past. This charming restaurant almost doubles up as a museum with its décor including a collection of antiques from the previous century.
Most of these antiques belong to Old China’s owner, Leonard Tee, an antique collector and self-professed hoarder.
He told FMT that this antiquated shophouse was previously a porcelain warehouse, passed on to him by its elderly owner.
In a nod to the restaurant’s Peranakan roots, there is also an intricately crafted wooden partition in the centre of the dining area, a characteristic of Peranakan homes.
While some people do visit this restaurant to immerse themselves in the restaurant’s old-world charm, Warong Old China has also quite an extensive menu.
Here, you can expect to feast on quite a few Peranakan favourites and rest assured, you’ll go home feeling truly satisfied.
For starters, you can begin with the classic Nyonya Pie Tee, a must-have at any self-respecting Peranakan restaurant.
The owner leaves it up to you to decide just how much (or little) vegetable stuffing you want with the crunchy top hats. And once it’s filled, don’t forget to dip the Pie Tee in some chilli paste – it’s the epitome of a spicy kick to the tongue!
Another appetiser is the Pomelo Salad; it may look a little strange, but it’s a lot tastier than one may initially expect.
This salad’s refreshing, citrussy flavours are already good on its own, but what makes it extra special is the addition of cranberry bits that add bursts of intense flavour.
Next up is a rare dish you would be hard-pressed to find elsewhere, namely the Buah Keluak Fried Rice.
Buah Keluak refers to the poisonous fruit of the kepayang tree which is effectively extinct in Malaysia but is still cultivated in Indonesia.
Not to worry though, as the fruit is made completely edible through fermentation, and its tar-like flesh is what gives this fried rice its dark appearance.
In Peranakan cuisine, Buah Keluak is valued for its mild spiciness, and its aroma is something quite akin to truffles!
One dish every visitor should try is the Jenahak Asam Fish, a gorgeous seafood dish that is nothing short of mouth-watering. Bathing in a spicy-sour tamarind gravy is the Jenahak fish, a juicy specimen with soft, sweet flesh that easily parts from the bone.
That golden gravy too deserves some of the spotlight and it is recommended you enjoy this dish with a bowl of coconut rice, tinged blue with butterfly pea flower.
After such a hearty meal, you might be tempted to call it a day, but think again because the Durian Bubur Cha Cha is to die for.
With the distinct scent of the King of the Fruits, this Bubur Cha Cha is certainly not like the usual stuff you get on the streets.
It does have the prerequisite sweet potato and tapioca cubes within the creamy dessert, but the addition of durian chunks is certainly a nice touch. Sweetened just right, this dessert is the perfect way to end your meal.
Warong Old China
144, Jalan Tun HS Lee
50000 Kuala Lumpur
Business hours: 11am-9pm daily (closed on Wednesdays)
Contact: 011-1218 7691
Delivery: foodpanda.my
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