Since 1999, Balamurali Bathumalay has been rolling up his sleeves to produce this sticky snack for the Chinese New Year season.
“When I first started, many Chinese customers supported me and I even exported my nian gao to Singapore,” said the 55-year-old founder of NYCC Enterprise, known for its delicious kuih bakul.
With a team of about 50 workers, Balamurali produces these traditional rice cakes at his shop in Taman Johor Jaya, Johor Bahru. His workforce is a mix of Malays, Indians and Chinese, reflecting the muhibbah spirit of Malaysia.
Making these sweet and sticky rice cakes, he explained, is no easy feat. The process begins by heating banana leaves to soften them, and then cutting them to fit the moulds.
The leaves, Balamurali explained, add a lovely fragrance to the nian gao.
Next, sugar syrup is mixed with glutinous rice flour. The mixture is carefully poured into the moulds before being steamed for approximately 10 hours. Balamurali uses a large steamer that can accommodate up to 1,000 moulds at once.
He said using high-quality ingredients is key, especially the glutinous rice flour, which is essential to the kuih’s texture.
In addition to the traditional banana-leaf-wrapped version, he also produces kuih bakul wrapped in plastic, which is typically used for prayer offerings.
Both options are available in various sizes ranging from 200g to 800g. Balamurali sells his kuih bakul at a local Chinese New Year bazaar, and supplies them to Chinese prayer shops across Johor and Singapore.
He typically begins making and selling kuih bakul about a month before the Lunar New Year. During the rest of the year, he works as a property agent.
Balamurali shared that he first learnt to make these rice cakes while working at a factory in Johor Bahru that produced various Chinese confectioneries.
The 1997 Asian financial crisis had impacted his employer’s business, eventually leading to its closure and leaving Balamurali in a tough spot. His eldest son, Raakesh, had just been born and Balamurali wondered how he would support his family.
Recalling that his former employer earned profits from making and selling kuih bakul during the festive season, he decided to give it a shot – and has since found sweet success.
Today, he shared proudly, Raakesh has learnt the ropes of the business and helps him run it. In fact, it’s a true family affair, with his wife and three other children pitching in to manage their stall at the bazaar.
“I started helping my father when I was around 11 years old. I feel very proud that we have such a unique business,” said Raakesh, now 26.
While he works in Singapore, he makes it a priority to come home when it’s time to begin their kuih-making efforts. He has also helped modernise the business by introducing a Facebook account and a blog, allowing them to reach even more customers.
Raakesh finds joy in seeing customers of various races savouring their kuih bakul, and is especially happy when the Chinese community praises its quality and taste.
Indeed, it’s rare to find an Indian family producing a beloved Chinese delicacy; as such, Balamurali’s business beautifully reflects the rich tapestry of multicultural Malaysia.
“Some Chinese people have told me that my nian gao reminds them of the ones their grandmothers used to make. That makes me happy,” Balamurali concluded.
NYCC Enterprise is accepting orders for kuih bakul until Chap Goh Mei (Feb 12). To order, contact 019-779 4254 / 017-774 3664 (Balamurali) or 017-7495 269 (Raakesh).
To find out more, visit their blog and Facebook profile.
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